Morocco and Naples

As the last week approached, I was able to jam in quite a bit of activities before leaving Morocco. Equally jammed will be this entry, where I try to pack in all that happened in the last two weeks. I’ll start with two separate day trips around the El Kelaa school. The first was to the El Attaouia Souq, or the outdoor market. Every Thursday, a large area of land is transformed into hundreds of stands selling everything you can imagine. There were all kinds of foods, ranging from fresh produce to fresh meats, as well as supplies for offices, homes, schools, and farming. At one stand, they were actively making metal tools in a makeshift forge. There was also pre-made furniture and furniture being built on the spot, livestock, seafood, olive products, and so much more. It stood out to me how things we take for granted, like refrigeration for meats, are much less common than we think around the world. Most of the meat was not refrigerated, and at most, the seafood had some ice around it that was quickly melting in the sun. This is their normal, and every Thursday, thousands of people come to buy and sell goods. On another day, we went to a new city called Beni Mellal. We visited a freshwater source that the city has turned into a well-manicured park and tourist attraction called Ain Asserdoun. It has a rich history and is one of the few places in the area with a lot of greenery. It was surprising how different it felt to be around so much green after weeks in a mostly dry environment in Kelaa. Yet again, it was a reminder of how we adapt to our surroundings and the challenges of living in areas where water is not easily accessible. This is even more dire due to the ongoing drought in Morocco over the past several years.

As a volunteer, we had the option to organize a club for the students. Having been part of the cooking club, I was trying to think of something different. My first thought was something related to software, but with a time limit of two hours, it didn’t seem like the best use of time. I was then reminded of the fun challenges we had in high school physics class to build bridges and catapults. And so, the engineering club was born. I decided to go with bridge building but wanted to add a creative twist. I limited the materials to newspapers, which were packed in a bag along with scissors and a ruler. I let the students know they could use everything I had given them. The trick was that the bag itself was the only thing that could be used as a binding agent. They had to cut thin strips to tie rolls of newspaper together. If no one figured it out within 15 minutes, I planned to give them the tip, which is what ended up happening. Once I did, their eyes widened with excitement at the new possibilities. They had a time limit of one hour, and all teams created some hefty bridges. Testing was chaotic, to say the least. Over 30 students crowded with high intensity and eagerness around the testing area. We would ask them to step back, but within seconds, they were all enclosed again. Competitiveness was at an all-time high, and they were yelling and talking over each other with accusations of cheating or not meeting parameters. Some of the accusations were not unfounded, as I came across a few instances during the building process where students tried to use tape or other materials. For better or worse, it seems prudent to account for this when creating challenges. However, there was also a wonderful display of collaboration within the teams, and everyone had great things to say about the event as we wrapped up.

It was finally time to say farewell to Kelaa and head to the Razala farm, the home of my cousin’s cousin, her husband, and their three boys. They welcomed me warmly and excitedly, as if we had known each other for many years. Using permaculture and other natural farming techniques, they have transformed their land into a mini oasis over the last five years. Of the projects they had available, I decided to take on clearing out the cattail plants that had taken over a section of their pond. I had no idea how powerful the root system created by these plants was. It took a bit more effort than I expected, but I was able to complete the job. In doing so, I also picked up the nickname “pond guy.” During my stay, it worked out that two natural farming consultants were invited to the farm. They were quite knowledgeable, and we all learned a great deal. For lunch, I helped cook a sweet pea and artichoke tagine that we all enjoyed together. My time at the farm wasn’t all work. I enjoyed two separate evenings with their friends: a birthday party at a nearby hotel owned by close friends and a night at a Greek restaurant where a friend’s partner performs. The restaurant offers a dining and show experience that was quite entertaining. At home, we had great conversations about farming, travels, and social challenges. It was a wonderful time, and I hope to see them all again in the future.

From there I headed off to Naples. My first couple of days were packed with activities. Before arriving, I met a Couchsurfer online who was going to be there for two days, and we planned to visit Pompeii and Sorrento together. Pompeii was fascinating, but I didn’t realize its size and how much there is to see. Half a day didn’t do it justice. I’m hoping to return for a second visit and also to see nearby Herculaneum, which is better preserved due to its proximity to Mount Vesuvius. Sorrento was a great visit. Perched on high cliffs, it offers stunning views of the Bay of Naples. It is also known for some of the best lemons, leading to many artisanal limoncello liquors being made there. The next day, I met with a local who, for the last ten years, has helped organize volunteers for dozens of NGOs. He and the three other founders saw that many of these organizations lacked the time or expertise to handle this task but could greatly benefit from it. It was inspiring to see how they addressed this need by specializing in a common aspect.

Wishing you and yours a joyful and peaceful holiday season as we wrap up 2024!