Hanoi and Chanthaburi

My last two days in Vietnam I spent in Hanoi. It gave me a day to visit and the second to arrive at the airport with plenty of time and tranquility. I booked a hostel in the old quarter where my host had suggested. It was a great recommendation, with many interesting places within walking distance. I woke up early, had breakfast at the hostel, and mapped out a few places nearby that I wanted to visit. My first stop was the Ngoc Son Temple, which is on a small island on a lake connected by a red wooden bridge. I walked around to take in the temple and its construction, as well as to enjoy the view of the city from the island. The next stop was a nice walk to Hoa Lo prison. I was hesitant when I added it to the map, but decided it had a lot of history and that I should visit. It was intense, showing what the locals went through during colonization and later with the war with the U.S. I walked around and read many of the posters and signboards. It also showed the resiliency of the Vietnamese people. In the evening I had ginger tea and dinner on a popular street where the train passes with barely enough room. In some cases they asked customers to step inside and fold the chairs and tables. Although short, my time in Hanoi was impactful.

I made it to Bangkok, but that first night I felt like I was picking up another cold. I spent the first day in bed and extended my stay. That small pause was needed, and by the third day I was better and ready to take the bus to Chantaburi to stay with my friend. We had not seen each other since around 2017. He was also hosting another friend, so the three of us spent most days together. It was really wonderful to reconnect. As we hung out, it felt as if we had just been working together a few weeks ago instead of years. From the moment he picked me up at the bus station until he dropped me off, he was intent on sharing all his favorite things in the area, and he did so thoughtfully while sharing the story of each place, how he found it and why it was important. He also shared a pace very similar to mine, with time to relax in between. Like when we played the cooperative Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles game. It was a lot of fun and reminded me of when my brother and I used to play so many years ago. Or when we stayed up to watch an American football game that started at 1am. He makes a point to watch them, even though most are this late, as it has been a way to stay connected with his family back in the US. It had been some time since I had watched a game, and sharing that moment and the camaraderie of cheering for a team was very memorable.

As the days went on, I started to see connections and parallels from my visits to my father when he lived in Manaus, in the middle of the Amazon. From little things like learning there is a chain called Amazon Cafe to the lush tropical vegetation. For our first day trip the three of us went on our motorbikes; I rented one so we could all go together. We first stopped at a shop that served hot chocolate made from cocoa grown right on the property. The first time I saw a cocoa plant and tried the fruit was in Manaus. Then we headed to a port on the river where we took a boat to a floating soft crab farm and restaurant. It reminded me of similar moments in the Amazon. The food is equally delicious but quite different from that of Brazil. Later, we started talking about rubber trees and I was reminded of how my dad would emphatically share the story of how British explorers removed a large number of seeds from the Amazon that flourished in Thailand. It was one of the main factors in the end of the boom in Manaus and the surrounding area. When I heard that story growing up, Thailand felt so distant, and now here I was. It brought forth a sense of connection and closeness even though they are so far apart.

The beach was our next day trip and again we went on our motorbikes. We stopped at two temples on the way. One had a great view from a hilltop, and the second was all white and blue with very detailed murals painted inside. We ate fish by the beach and later hung out at a café where I shared a Bingsu. We walked a bit on the beach and saw the sunset, having good conversations about things we had done and possibilities of the future. Riding the motorbike had been fun, reminding me of when I used to ride one in California. It also brought with it a little fear, something I always felt when riding, at how delicate we are and how little is needed for things to go awry. The sun went down and we started on our way back home. As we approached a tight corner I noticed a darker spot on the road, almost like it was wet but not exactly. I thought I would be fine going through it, but as I did I lost control and fell with the bike. I still cannot say exactly what happened, but it did. I was able to get up quickly and only had minor scratches on my foot and leg. Anytime you walk away from a bike crash, it is a great day. They stopped, walked back toward me, and checked on me as quickly as they could. I felt grateful they were there. After making sure all was well we headed back home.

To rest from my fall and the many things we had done the days prior, we took things a bit slower. We enjoyed a great deal of food together. Some of my favorites were mini pies from one of his favorite bakeries, miang kam, beef soups, and various coffees. Like me when showing folks around my hometown, we both looked forward to the reactions and feedback about the foods we were sharing. It was good to be on the other side this time, getting to try these new things and sharing my thoughts and reactions with him. In the relaxing theme the three of us got a Thai massage together. We were all three next to each other on mats, and throughout our massage he carried out a conversation in Thai with the masseuse. He was really in his element and was a clear example of something he shared early on about how he feels he belongs here. On my last morning he took me to the bus station on his motorbike. He stopped on the way to get me a bun filled with Thai tea cream, which I enjoyed later on the bus. We hung out a few more minutes at a café while waiting for the bus. We said goodbye, happy and grateful we had the chance to spend these days together, but sad it was already over. I hope we do not go this many years without seeing each other again.