Istanbul

Istanbul has served as the capital of three empires, four if you include the short-lived Latin Empire created by the Fourth Crusade. It goes without saying that it has been at the center of countless conflicts, achievements, and history. Walking through its streets, I could almost feel the weight of the infinite decisions made by leaders and citizens alike who have passed through here. Decisions that led to walls, buildings, and lives being destroyed and rebuilt. A multitude of decisions, one leading to the next. Human choices, for as long as we have been able to make them, have impacted not only ourselves but others, many times causing suffering to all in the process.

One such building is the Hagia Sophia. For almost a thousand years, it was the largest cathedral. In addition to its historical significance, it was one of the places I most wanted to visit because of memories of a video game I played often with my brother and sister. The game, Civilization IV, had many wonders one could build, but for reasons I can’t recall, the Hagia Sophia stayed with me the most vividly. We would spend hours, late into weekend and holiday nights, working together to overcome the computer. Very fond memories. A few days before arriving, I also learned that some of my other nieces and nephews have started playing it as well, which made seeing it in person even more meaningful. It is a remarkable site to see, knowing it was built in 537 AD. Its size and architecture truly stand out. It was interesting to see, in many places, where marble crosses had been partially chiseled out, a subtle reminder of the building’s history.

It was during my visit to Istanbul that I crossed the one-year mark of my travels. It was a difficult decision to make then, and again I found myself at a similar crossroads. My gut is telling me to pursue this path, to keep exploring and understanding my needs. My heart is yearning to be closer to loved ones, especially her, who has been so important to me. Among all the wondrous things she’s shared with me, her ideas and practices have changed me in unimaginable ways, and she has done so with a love and presence that I will always carry within me. One of these practices has been a few forms of meditation, which have helped me deeply. I am eternally grateful for her and all she has gifted me.

Almost every day in the morning, I went to the Bosphorus to meditate. If I woke up early enough, I would also do yoga or pilates. From there I would return to the hostel and enjoy their delicious breakfast. Every morning they prepared a buffet of various savory dishes, salads, and cooked vegetables along with cheeses, bread, and sweets. It was all cooked in their kitchen and tasted wonderful. For my other meals, I ventured both on my own and by following a list of restaurants recommended by the hostel. It was a great list, given there were so many places to choose from. Among some of my favorites were a fish wrap, made simply with barbecued fish, fresh vegetables, and a couple of sauces; çiğ köfte, which is a mix of grain, spices, and tomato sauce that used to also have raw meat but has been mostly outlawed; lentil soup; various kebabs; kelle paça soup, which translates to Trotting Feet soup and contains various cow parts; and a number of sweets like baklava, ice cream, and knafeh.

I also met two travelers who, like me, are taking time away from work to see the world. The first I met during breakfast at the hostel, where we shared our reasons for traveling and our future plans. Later we went to dinner together, and on the day he was leaving, we walked through Gülhane Park. He had already been to various places in Asia and shared some useful tips. The second I met during a walking tour. She invited me to visit some art galleries. The first few we attempted were either closed or charged an entrance fee, but eventually we found a couple worth visiting. She also shared her journey through Central and Southeast Asia, with equally valuable insights. It was uplifting to meet others on similar paths and to exchange what we had learned and experienced.

As I explored the city, I visited many other ancient sites and buildings. I visited the Galata Tower, built in 1348 by the Genoese. I was able to go up and see the city from above, imagining what it must have been like when the tower was newly constructed. Throughout the city, I saw walls, columns, and stones from centuries ago, some better preserved than others. From a random parking lot, I saw a house that has roughly a floor built in each of these different empires, abandoned for some years, its future uncertain. In Gülhane Park, once part of Topkapı Palace, I came across the Column of the Goths, a 60-foot pillar carved from a single piece of marble, and a Roman cistern hidden in plain sight, free to enter and mostly overlooked by tourists. To contrast these ancient treasures, I visited the Çamlıca Tower, a recent construction on a hill that replaced over 30 communications towers. I was equally impressed by it, and it can’t be minimized how far we have come to be able to create a structure such as this. And in all these places, there was always a cat, often right in the middle of the path, knowing it was safe. On another one of my walks, I saw a small boy carrying a cart twice his size, picking up items to be recycled from the street and garbage bins. It is moments like these that bring the reality of how lucky and privileged I am into sharp focus. It is difficult to process such inequalities, yet I choose to believe in hope, in kindness, and in love.