Nicosia

I spent Christmas in Naples, and for the first time, I was away from any family. I had to think about that for a while to confirm, but in the various parts of the world where I’ve spent Christmas, it was always spent with some family. Although different, it turned out to be a very nice time. The hostel hosted a small Christmas Eve gathering with a Panettone and a bottle of champagne. I decided to buy a Pandoro when I learned there’s quite a fun rivalry in Naples between fans of each cake during this time of year. We had a good laugh comparing who preferred what and why. After enjoying the sweets, a small group of us headed down the street to a tiny establishment that had a karaoke night. When we arrived, there was a large family celebrating a birthday. The whole family was there, old and young. The youngest, I’d guess, was around five and greatly enjoyed singing. After a few songs, we were cheering each other on and singing along. When it came time to sing “Happy Birthday,” we all joined in, and they shared their birthday cake with us. In the following days, that same group visited Herculaneum and went on a couple of walking tours together.

This welcoming spirit also took place at the Nanà Center, which I visited a few times. I was introduced to the center by the volunteer coordinator I had met during my first days. The center’s main focus is supporting unaccompanied foreign minors and young adults. Things were a bit slow during my time there since it was the end of the year, but I got to learn a bit about what they do and meet the staff. At lunchtime, everyone would gather around a large table. Some brought lunches from home, while others bought food from nearby places. Every day that I was there, they stopped work to make time for lunch. They talked about a wide range of topics. Since it was all in Italian, I was only able to catch some of it. Occasionally, they would explain things to us. Coincidentally, my time there overlapped with a volunteer from Portugal, and we commented that it felt like watching a TV show unfold as we ate and tried to understand what was being said.

Two days before the end of the year, I boarded a plane to Cyprus, where I would start my two-week volunteering period at the Cyprus Dignity Centre. I arrived in Nicosia on the 31st. On my way there, the Cyprus coordinator let me know that the volunteer apartment was available and that I could move in that same day. Originally, it wasn’t going to be open until the 2nd. This update was thanks to another volunteer from Paris who had worked with the organization before and, a few days earlier, had decided to spend a week in Cyprus. The two of us spent New Year’s Eve at the apartment, where we made tea and enjoyed some chocolate. I wasn’t planning to stay up until midnight, but while talking to my siblings, my brother mentioned how unique it was that I was so far ahead of them during New Year’s and suggested I stay up to experience it. I stayed up a bit past midnight and got to wish them a Happy New Year and Happy Birthday to my sister. From the window, we got to see a few fireworks and counted down while standing on one leg to start the 'year on the right foot.' The city seemed exceptionally quiet for New Year’s, but that seems to be the vibe in Nicosia: very laid-back. The next morning, we ate breakfast and walked to the center, which took about 30 minutes. About halfway there, we came across my first Buffer Zone divider. Seeing the barbed wire, cameras, and warning signs in person was surreal and had a greater impact than I expected

The shifts at the center run from 9 to 5, allowing an hour in the morning to set things up and plan the day. On my first day, I spent most of my time in the Free Market. This is where asylum seekers can come once a week to shop for food. The store operates on a point system. Families are allocated points per week based on the number of people in the household, and they can choose items that add up to their total points. This method was chosen as it not only allows them to select what meets their needs but also adds a sense of normalcy by letting them shop for items themselves. On my second day, I started learning about another area the center focuses on: assisting with bureaucratic processes. Asylum seekers and refugees come to the center for help with procedures like opening a bank account, creating and setting up accounts for the labor office and health system, and other administrative needs. These processes are complex, often involving lengthy forms, appointment scheduling, and document uploads. Without the center, many members wouldn’t be able to navigate these systems or might seek help from opportunists who charge for such services.

In the following days, two more volunteers arrived. The four of us got along really well, supporting each other as we learned the various tasks at hand and enjoying our downtime at the apartment. We cooked, played Exploding Kittens, watched movies, and relaxed in the living area, each reading different books. During our first weekend together, we planned a walk along the buffer zone and crossed over to the Turkish side. It was strange to cross. You are walking down what seems like a normal road in the city, and without much warning, you come upon the crossing where you must present your passport to continue. On the other side, a new currency, language, and even time zone await. While it resembled other international crossings in many ways, knowing the whole city was divided by conflict gave it a heavier, more somber feeling. On the other side, we enjoyed cake and a wonderful lunch in a bookstore. The space was like an old home filled with books and eclectic decorations, with tables spread throughout. It felt like dining in someone’s personal library.

As the days went on, I continued to learn more about the organization and the members who visit the center. Their ages, languages, and countries of origin vary widely. Some have been here for years, while others arrived only weeks ago. The center, having been around for five years, has become a well-known entity in the country. Word of mouth brings both new and returning members, and it has become a beacon of welcome and positivity. As some of you may already know, I have started a fundraising page to help raise money for the center. They rely solely on donations and every amount helps. Please consider donating and sharing it to your friends and family.

My next destination will be a bit of an unplanned detour. I have decided to head to Brazil for a couple months to spend time with my Mom and help her with a few processes of her own. After that, I will return to Europe and continue my journey to Asia.